"Must be nearly fifty years since I've been on a train"
"I aint never rode the train"
The driver of the hotel shuttle service and the Greyhound bus driver we've just picked up convey the same indignation as all americans I've told that I am travelling by train. Americans don't catch trains anymore; Charlotte wasn't even aware Dallas had a station; so unconvinced was she that she urged me to check I hadn't been scammed when I said I had bought tickets online.
Union Station is clear and open and quiet; allowing a lengthy discussion with the ticket office clerk, during which I convince her to avoid London and head to the north if ever she visits England. My Yorkshire ambassador status intact, and after an hour and a half delay I board the train. On first galnce its hard to understand why Americans shun this form of transport; air conditioned and spacious two tier carriages giving a confortable view of America as it slides rather slowly past the window. From this seat I can see more of this country through the backyards and works yards of trackside towns such as Clifton, McGregor and the fantastically named Moody with it's main street addorned with great signs; Moody Furniture, Moody Store and the Moody Christian Church of God where become go to worship BECAUSE HE SAID SO! DAMMIT!
Approaching Temple the conductor runs through the famous claims of nearby Waco; home of Dr Pepper and the 2005 women's collegiate basketball champions. In contrast to the keen embrace of JFK's demise in Dallas he omits the infamous siege for which I know Waco best. Temple is also where I get my answer to the question 'why don't Americans travel by train?' We're running an hour and twenty five minutes late. An announcement that would have created a mutiny on GNER is instead met with quiet nods of acceptence.
Geographically and physically the train is approaching Austin, but time-wise its getting further and further away. On the tannoy the conductor is clearly as frustrated as the passengers as he explains how the delay is due to Union Pacific giving priority to freight trains, and then helpfully gives out telephone numbers for both the State and National Senate so you can complain about the system direct. He then returns to his tourist speel.
"...the train passes over the Colorado River; this is viewable from both sides of the carriage"
"Course it is," exclaims the old guy in front of me, "otherwise it'd be the Colorado Lake".
Arriving in Austin three hours late I make an executive decision to stay on the train to San Antonio rather than experience this two days straight. Overhearing my discussion with the conductor the couple opposite wish me good luck when they disembark; the guy exclaiming "Well... they sure took the train ride out of me" as he wanders down the carriage.
Finally in San Antonio, what was originally a six hour journey has become twelve. Its 2:15am. People who know their way round better than I do have claimed all the cabs so I set off walking in the vague direction of a neon Holiday Inn sign I saw from the train. They have no rooms but the hotel down the street does; just one... at $85. I take it. Its bigger than the entire upstairs of our house in Lincoln. I literally climb into bed and sleep... until awoken by the horn of a passing train a few moments later... then sleep... until reawoken by a passing train... then sleep... until; well you get the idea.
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