[usa10] san antonio

Its strange how being with someone else makes you feel more of a tourist; and much more at ease as a result. If only we had all worn the same colour we would blend right in. In order to naturalise ourselves further we begin with an American breakfast of pancakes and sausage at the Rivercenter Mall.

With Maria not so good with heights starting the day with a trip to the top of the 750ft Tower of the Americas was to be something of a challenge. At the foot of the tower a member of staff takes group pictures in front of a green screen. We aren't interested... "I take pictures of everyone who goes up the tower" is the curt reply and so without a say we are coralled into formation for a photograph no-one will ever look at.

With Maria's gazed fixed on the back wall Chris and I watch San Antonio disappear beneath our feet as the 'elevator' ascends the outside of the tower. An overview of all San Antonio has to offer awaits at the top; the Alamo, the Riverwalk, the mall, the Alomodome, the train station, my first hotel, our current abode and my route between the two. Beyond the concentrated downtown and surrounding suburbs Texas rolls out in a sort of red and golden hue; as Rich Hall once put it "So flat you can watch your dog run away for three days".

Back on terra firma we head downtown, pausing at the art deco Weldrick's Drug Store, which looks to me as if its straight out of an Edward Hopper painting, to marvel at the multitude of sweets and chocolate on offer. We move on and down to the Riverwalk and continue the tourist feel with a a boat trip captained by the tour-guide and comedian that is Hwan... "If we do have an accident and the boat goes down please grab a life jacket, hold it above your head and walk out of the river."

Casa Rios, highly recommended by Hwan, gives us an excuse to endulge in Mexican food; and a chance for the three man Mexican band to pounce.
"Hey, would you like us to play a song for you?"
"Sure, go for it" encourages Maria
"Its ten dollars a song"
"Then no thank you," she rebuffs just as quickly.

Stuffed to the sombrero with Tex-Mex cuisine, but Mr Ice Cream's boast of 37 flavours enables us to find enough room for dessert. I go for Bubblegum, and discover it to contain hidden pieces of gum which would give a Health and Safety Officer nightmares for weeks.

Later that night jet lag and the Texan heat have caught up with Chris allowing Maria and me to sample the night life alone. Although darkness has descended the populace is the same mix of t-shirt clad teenagers, families and graduating air force men that it was in mid afternoon as we take a seat at Jim Cullum's Landing for some riverside jazz and a bottle of wine. An oasis within the oasis, the cafe is warm and relaxed and not at all Texan. Our evening progresses to the much more lively Pat O'Brien's on Laboya Street where the live music continues with a more contemporary feel. Franz Ferdinand and Foo Fighters come from the four piece in the courtyard and before we know it its 1am and we're yawning between sentences. We wind our way back through the yellow glow of the warm night streets and are asleep before we realise.